My Journey to Colca LodgeBy María Chahud
When you work in travel for many years, people often ask if destinations still surprise you. After visiting countless places across Peru, I sometimes wonder the same thing myself. But every now and then, a place reminds me why I fell in love with this country in the first place. For me, one of those places is the Colca Valley—and especially the experience of staying at Colca Lodge, a sanctuary of warmth, silence, and starlight nestled deep in the Andes.
My journey began early in the morning in Arequipa, the elegant colonial city known as the “White City.” The soft golden light of dawn reflected off the volcanic stone buildings as I prepared to leave the city behind and begin the ascent toward the highlands. Even after many years organizing journeys through Peru for travelers from around the world, the road to the Colca Valley still fills me with anticipation.
Our vehicle left the quiet streets of Arequipa and began climbing steadily into the vast Andean landscape. The city slowly faded behind us, replaced by open plains and distant mountains that seemed to stretch endlessly toward the horizon. The air grew cooler and thinner as we gained altitude, and the scenery became increasingly dramatic.
One of the great pleasures of traveling through the Andes is that the journey itself is an experience. The road to Colca passes through the Salinas and Aguada Blanca National Reserve, a protected area where the landscape opens into wide, wind-swept plains dotted with grazing vicuñas. These elegant wild relatives of the alpaca move with such grace that every time I see them, I feel compelled to reach for my camera.
We stopped several times along the way—not just to acclimatize to the altitude, but because the views demanded it. Snow-capped volcanoes rose in the distance, their peaks floating above the clouds like silent guardians of the region. Herds of alpacas grazed peacefully across the altiplano, and the sky seemed impossibly wide and blue.
One of my favorite moments on this route is reaching the Patapampa Pass, at over 4,900 meters above sea level. Here, travelers often pause to take in the extraordinary panoramic view of the surrounding volcanoes. Standing there, surrounded by towering peaks, you feel a profound sense of the scale of the Andes—vast, ancient, and humbling.
The wind at that altitude carries a crisp, almost crystalline quality. As I stood there taking photos and breathing in the thin mountain air, I felt the quiet exhilaration that only high places can bring.
From Patapampa, the road begins to descend toward the Colca Valley, and the landscape transforms once again. The harsh, high-altitude plateau softens into green terraces carved into the mountainsides—an agricultural masterpiece created by ancient Andean civilizations long before the Incas.
These terraces, some of which are still used today, cascade down the slopes like giant staircases sculpted into the earth. It is a reminder that this valley has been inhabited for thousands of years, and that the relationship between people and landscape here runs deep.
As we continued our drive, small villages appeared along the route, their stone houses clustered around colonial churches that seem to rise unexpectedly from the valley floor. Women in colorful traditional dress walked along the roadside, their bright skirts and embroidered hats adding vivid splashes of color to the landscape.
After several hours of travel through this extraordinary terrain, we finally reached the Colca Valley itself—and soon after, the entrance to Colca Lodge.
From the moment I arrived, I felt that wonderful sense of having reached a place that invites you to slow down.
The lodge is built in harmony with its surroundings, using natural stone and traditional Andean design. Rather than dominating the landscape, it feels like it belongs to it. Terraced gardens filled with flowers and native plants lead down toward the river that flows through the valley.
But what makes this place truly special—what I had been anticipating since the moment we left Arequipa—are the natural thermal springs hidden just below the lodge.
After checking into my room and enjoying a quiet lunch overlooking the valley, I spent the afternoon exploring the grounds and recovering from the journey. As the sun began to dip behind the mountains and the air grew cooler, I wrapped myself in a warm robe and walked down the stone path that leads to the thermal pools.
The sound of the river accompanied me as I descended the steps, and soon the gentle steam rising from the hot springs came into view.
There are few sensations in travel that rival the moment when you first step into naturally heated mineral water after a long day of exploration.
The warmth envelops you instantly.
I slipped into the pool just as the last colors of sunset faded from the sky. Above me, the first stars began to appear—clear and brilliant in the pristine Andean night.
It is difficult to describe the feeling of floating in those warm waters while surrounded by mountains, silence, and the vastness of the night sky.
The lodge has created an atmosphere that feels both luxurious and deeply connected to nature. Soft lighting illuminates the pools without disturbing the darkness of the valley, and the only sounds are the gentle flow of the river and the occasional murmur of other travelers enjoying the same peaceful moment.
At one point, a member of the staff appeared beside the pool with a warm smile and a tray.
“Your wine, señora.”
A glass of my favorite red wine in hand, I leaned back against the edge of the pool and looked up at the sky.
Thousands of stars shimmered above me.
In that moment, time seemed to slow completely. The journey from Arequipa, the altitude, the changing landscapes, the photographs taken along the way—all of it led to this simple, perfect experience: warmth, quiet, and the immense beauty of the Andes.
But the evening was not over yet.
After soaking in the thermal waters for what felt like the perfect amount of time, I followed another small path back toward the lodge’s spa pavilion.
This is another of Colca Lodge’s hidden treasures.
The spa is designed with large glass walls that open toward the night sky, allowing you to remain connected to the landscape even while indoors. Soft lighting, natural materials, and the gentle sound of water create an atmosphere of profound relaxation.
As I lay on the massage table, the therapist began a soothing Andean-inspired treatment while soft music played in the background. Through the glass ceiling above me, the stars were still visible, scattered across the sky like diamonds.
There is something deeply restorative about ending a day of travel this way—allowing the body to relax completely while the mind drifts somewhere between wakefulness and dream.
By the time the massage ended, I felt a sense of calm that only certain places in the world can provide.
Later that evening, I returned to my room, where the silence of the valley wrapped around the lodge like a protective blanket. The air was cool, the sky brilliantly clear, and the mountains stood quietly in the darkness.
The next morning would bring another unforgettable experience—the flight of the condors over the Colca Canyon—but that night belonged entirely to the simple pleasures of the valley.
Warm water.
Starlight.
And the quiet magic of the Andes.
When travelers ask me about Peru, they often think first of Machu Picchu. And yes, Machu Picchu is extraordinary. But experiences like this—moments of peace in the Colca Valley, immersed in warm thermal waters under a sky full of stars—are the memories that stay with you long after the journey ends.
For those seeking not only adventure but also beauty, serenity, and connection with nature, the Colca Valley offers something truly special.
And for me, that night at Colca Lodge will always remain one of the most unforgettable moments of travel in Peru.
If this story has inspired you to experience the magic of the Andes for yourself, our team would be delighted to help you design a journey that reflects the same sense of discovery, comfort, and authenticity. A dedicated travel advisor can personally guide you in creating a carefully tailored itinerary, including exceptional stays, unforgettable landscapes, and unique moments such as those awaiting in the Colca Valley.