There are many ways to reach Machu Picchu. I chose the one that takes you across the Andes. For days, we walked beneath glaciers, climbed high mountain passes, crossed cloud forests and watched Peru change around us with every step. It wasn’t the easiest way to arrive—and that was exactly the point.
I wanted the adventure, the challenge, and that incredible feeling of seeing Machu Picchu in the distance and knowing exactly what it had taken to get there.
Where the Adventure Begins
Our journey started beneath the snow-covered peaks of Salkantay and Humantay. That first afternoon, we climbed toward Humantay Lagoon. My legs were already reminding me that this was only Day One—until the turquoise water appeared beneath the glaciers. Suddenly, the climb didn’t matter.
Beside the lagoon, we joined a traditional Pachamama ceremony, surrounded by mountains and almost complete silence. It was one of those unexpected moments that stays with you. And this was only the beginning.
Adventure, with a Little Comfort
Salkantay is wild, but that doesn’t mean every moment has to be uncomfortable. After hours on the trail, returning to a warm dome, enjoying beautifully prepared Andean food and learning to make a Pisco Sour surrounded by mountains felt surprisingly luxurious. That night, we gathered around a bonfire and looked up at a sky filled with thousands of stars. No traffic, no city lights, no rush—just the Andes.
I had expected Salkantay to be an adventure. I hadn’t expected some of the simplest moments to become my favorites.
The Day Salkantay Tests You
Then came the Seven Serpents. Looking up at the endless zigzags climbing the mountainside, I had one thought: That’s a long way up. At altitude, you learn quickly that reaching the top isn’t about speed. It’s about finding your rhythm: walk, breathe, keep going. There were moments when every step felt heavier than it should. But slowly, turn after turn, the pass came closer. When I finally reached the top, exhausted and surrounded by enormous peaks, the feeling wasn’t simply relief. It was: I did it. I looked back at the trail we had climbed and felt something I hadn’t expected: a quiet sense of pride. The mountain had asked a lot of me, and I had kept going.
One Trek Can Feel Like Several Different Journeys
One of Salkantay’s greatest surprises is how dramatically the landscape changes. Glaciers and high mountain passes gradually give way to warmer air, orchids, bromeliads and cloud forest. You haven’t taken a flight or driven hundreds of miles. You have simply walked from one world into another.
From Glaciers to Coffee Country
Only a short time earlier, I had been wrapped against the cold beneath glaciers. Now I was walking among giant ferns, banana plants and tropical vegetation. Every day seemed determined to show me a different Peru. Then came coffee. At a local organic coffee farm, we learned how the beans were harvested and roasted by hand—and then drank coffee grown on the very hillside around us. It was such a simple moment: a warm cup of coffee after days on the trail. But somehow, it was perfect.
Later came another reward: the warm waters of Cocalmayo. After everything my legs had been through, slipping into the pools surrounded by lush green mountains felt incredible. My immediate thought? I definitely earned this.
And Then, Machu Picchu Appeared
The next day, we climbed through the forest toward Llactapata. By then, walking had become part of my daily rhythm: put on the boots, start moving, see what the trail brings. And then we reached the viewpoint. Across the valley, there it was: Machu Picchu. I had seen it before, but never like this. Not from the entrance, not from a bus, not from the familiar postcard viewpoint—but from far across the mountains, after days of walking toward it.
For a few minutes, I simply stood there. By then, Machu Picchu wasn’t just the destination. It was everything that had brought me there—the glaciers, the altitude, the Seven Serpents, the cold mornings, the cloud forest, the laughter, the coffee and all those miles of trail. We hadn’t simply arrived. We had slowly approached it for days, and that made seeing it completely different.
The Journey Before the Destination
Before dawn the following morning, we made our way toward Machu Picchu. The mountains were still dark when the light began to change. Slowly, the ancient stone city emerged as the first rays of sun reached the ruins. I had made it.
But standing there, I found myself thinking as much about the journey behind me as the wonder in front of me: Humantay, the Pachamama ceremony, the stars above Soraypampa, the Seven Serpents, the wind at the pass, the moment the cold Andes became green forest, that wonderful cup of coffee, Cocalmayo, and the first distant glimpse of Machu Picchu from Llactapata. I had started Salkantay thinking I was walking to Machu Picchu. By the end, I understood something different: Machu Picchu was the destination. Salkantay was the adventure I would remember.